The Complete RV Emergency Repair Kit Guide: What Every RVer Should Carry for the Road
- Just CAMP Wait
- Oct 25
- 9 min read
Why Every RVer Needs an Emergency Repair Kit
After years of RV travel, I've learned that being self-sufficient isn’t optional... it’s essential. No matter how careful you are or how well-maintained your rig is, something will shake loose. You’re pulling your home down the highway at 60+ mph, bouncing over rough pavement, dodging low limbs, storms, and that detour your GPS insisted was fine. The truth is: it’s not a matter of if something will break, but when.
I'll take you through everything I keep in my kit while traveling. I've included links to the exact items on Amazon so you can build your kit as you go or take a look at the list at the end of this article for a complete listing and links to all items to add to your shopping list. No need to dig around for products that work, these items are specifically what I use.
RV Tire and Wheel Emergencies: Be Ready for the Blowout
Tire problems are high on the list of “trip-horrors”. Even with regular inspections and pressure checks, you can’t always prevent a nail, shard of metal, or sudden failure. Having the right gear is your insurance.
We do use the TireMinder TPMS System, but TPMS systems are only designed to tell you that you have a problem before it gets out of hand but not solve the problem once it occurs. You have to be prepared to do something about that TPMS alarm. Assuming you are carrying at least one spare tire, here is my kit for tire emergencies.
Trailer Aid Tire Ramp – Especially useful for tandem-axle trailers: drive up on the good tire and it lifts the flat tire on the same side quickly and easily. Optional item but adds speed and convenience.
12-ton bottle jack – My pick for maximum versatility: works on my trailer, tow vehicle, and in situations where both tires on the same side are flat. If I had to pick one lifting tool, it would be this. If money is tight, skip the ramp and get the jack. For added safety, consider an axle tube adapter as a handy add on.
Socket & lug wrench set – The manual set covers all bases to ensure you have the leverage to get the lug nuts off when you need to. It's the cost-effective ol' reliable for changing a tire.
DeWalt 20V impact wrench – The impact wrench saves time and frustration when lug nuts are seized or you’re stressed on the roadside. This is an optional item, but I love my Dewalt impact. Be sure to have the correct deep well socket to go along with it.
High-pressure tire gauge – Ensure proper PSI (most RV tires demand 80+ PSI, not the 50–60 you find on some gauges). Without a decent gauge, you're gambling with your tires.
DeWalt 20V tire inflator – Inflate tires on the go without seeking a gas station tire inflation station and ensure proper PSI. No 120-volt power source like a small compressor needs and it shares the same 20-volt battery as the impact. Hookup the hose, set the desired pressure, hit the inflate button, and it'll turn of automatically when its done. I've used mine for three years now and it works flawlessly. It is a "nice to have" but once you have it you'll wonder what you did before it.
Tire plug kit – Not a permanent fix, but a great emergency measure when you’re far from service and already have a flat. They have saved me more than once on a Sunday afternoon.
Tip: Keep all tire-tools easily accessible on the passenger side of your RV. If you’re pulled over on a highway shoulder, ease of access and safety matter. Most pull-offs are on the right meaning the passenger side will be away from traffic.
RV Roof and Sidewall Leaks: Stopping Water Damage
Water is the number-one enemy for RV owners. Even if your unit is well built, weaknesses exist—seams fail, skylights crack, tree limbs scrape overhead, an unexpected scrape while backing, and storms rolling in. Many insurance policies require immediate action to stop further damage — so you better be ready. Keeping a few items in the kit can mean the difference between an inconvenience and a disaster.
Alpha Systems Roof Sealant + caulk gun – I prefer Alpha because it seems to bubble less during curing than Dicor; bubbles at highway speed on a rubber roof can morph into tears. If you prefer Dicor, it’s still one of the best and completely acceptable. Small holes and touching up damaged sealant on the roof is quick work if you have some lap sealant handy.
Eternabond Sealant Tape (4″ width) – This is a must-have. Works on damp surfaces, adheres strongly, and can patch everything from torn roof membrane to hail-damaged skylights or small damage in sidewalls. Just clean the area as best you can, unroll the tape, press it firmly, and you have a watertight bond. I still recommend having a professional assess for a final fix, but it keeps you rolling.
Lexel Clear Sealant – Ideal for sidewall seams or trim that’s pulling away. Flexible, durable, and sticks better than many standard silicones. When applying, wet your finger with soapy water to prevent pull-back and get a smooth finish. This is my go-to sealant for sidewalls. The small 5 oz tube is perfect for a kit.
Plastic drop cloth – If a large limb smashes your roof vent or a window breaks, drop cloths can be folded and taped on to keep rain out until you reach a full repair shop. Less durable, but effective in a pinch.
Gorilla Tape – You'll need something to tape those drop cloths on if you need to put them to use and it needs to be an exterior ready tape. Gorilla Tape fits the bill and let's be honest, there are endless uses for a good duct tape.
Fixing RV Plumbing Leaks on the Go
If you travel enough, you’ll face a leaky fitting, cracked hose, or malfunctioning valve. But the tools for these repairs are compact, affordable, and incredibly effective. Pay close attention to any connection where the manufacturers mix PEX and braided hose. They are notorious points of failure. My kit has:
X-Factor Silicone Tape – Wraps around water lines, hoses, even waste hose sections. Clean the leak area, stretch the tape tightly, overlap layers, and you have a strong seal. I once patched a coolant hose with this and drove 400 + miles without issue.
Flair-It fittings – These push-fit connectors let you cleanly cut away damaged hose sections or bad fittings and insert a new fitting. They work on PEX and braided hose and are DIY friendly. I carry a few ½″ fittings because most of my water lines are that size. A small assortment can save the day when you have a fitting go bad. Also include a cap or shutoff fitting to isolate a section of plumbing if needed such as a leaking toilet or faucet.
Seal kit – Happens more than you’d think: a hose seal fails, a quick-connect washer fails, or a faucet O-ring gives up. These cost pennies but can save you from major messes.
Sewer Hose Gaskets – Cheap and easy to replace as long as you have them available.
Sewer Waste Gate – The gasket goes bad, the handle breaks, or a leak starts. I carry a complete valve because it's four bolts and I'm back to working like new. There are also remote valve kits at a reasonable price for those with wet bays, but I generally just carry the standard gate which I can scavenge parts and seals off of if needed to fix a remote gate valve.
RV Electrical Repairs: Safe and Simple Troubleshooting
Electrical failures can be dangerous, but many common issues are easy to fix with the right gear and some caution. I carry tools for diagnosis, connectors, and fuse/spare parts to stay prepared.
If you smell burning plastic, see sparking wires, or see smoke — don’t wait. Disconnect power and call a pro. That said, a lot of smaller issues happen due to vibration loosened connections or blown fuses — issues you can handle yourself if you're comfortable with basic electrical work. Just be sure you have a basic understanding of safety and circuit layout before you try any repairs yourself.
Multimeter – My first tool of choice when I suspect an electrical problem. It checks for voltage, continuity, resistance, and quickly isolates the faulty circuit. You don't need anything fancy, but a basic reliable meter can sniff out a lot of problems.
12 V fuse kit – Many RV systems use automotive style fuses. Having replacements on hand means you’re not stranded waiting for a parts store.
Electrical tape – For insulating exposed wires or patching minor abrasions. I go with commercial grade because the cheap stuff never lasts.
Wago connectors – Vibration takes its toll on RV wiring. Many modern rigs use Wago lever connectors — I carry replacements so I can swap them out on the spot if needed.
Wire Nuts – Where your there aren't Wago connectors, there are wire nuts. These are also good for capping off wires when used properly if you need to remove an outlet or component.
Splice and connector kit – For broken or fatigued wires and connectors. Corrosion and vibration can cause a lot of issues with connectors. Easily replace, but a common source of issues.
Resettable breakers – These are usually near the battery bank and protect your DC system. When they fail, the whole 12-volt system goes down.
The RV Propane System: Common Issues
The LP system on an RV feeds several critical components. I don't normally recommend armatures to dig too deep into this system because there is a lot that can go wrong if you don't know what you're doing. That said, there are a few parts that tend to fail that can be an easy DIY replacement that I pack along:
LP Regulator – They malfunction at the worst possible times. RV style regulators can be difficult to find in a pinch, but relatively easy to replace if you have one.
LP Tank Pigtails – These things love to leak overtime. Another simple repair, but good luck finding them if you don't have an RV parts store close by.
Miscellaneous RV Repair Essentials
Some tools don’t fit one system but are indispensable across multiple situations. A well-stocked general toolkit and a few smart accessories will keep you prepared.
These are the items I always bring:
A basic toolkit – (screwdrivers, pliers, sockets, adjustable wrench, #2 square-head driver). This covers working inside/outside the RV. You can go as high quality and expensive as you desire, but a basic set will suffice (and probably save some weight).
RV-specific screws – in assorted lengths. These come loose during travel more often than expected. Most are size 8 1-inch screws, so consider getting some size 10 1-inch screws as well for stripped out holes.
Zip ties (various sizes) – They’ve saved me many times: securing dangling wires, holding a loose panel, tying up a malfunctioning awning arm. Cheap and immensely useful.
Confidence Comes From Preparation
Building your own RV emergency repair kit isn’t about hauling every tool under the sun — it’s about thoughtful selection: tools that match your rig, your travel style, and the types of environments you’ll visit. A basic kit gives you independence, safety, and peace of mind.
Start with the essentials, use your rig and experience to tweak what you carry, and slowly build a kit you already know how to use. Because when your spare tire fails in the middle of nowhere or your roof starts leaking in a storm, you’ll be glad you did.
Don't wait to learn how to make basic repairs. Download manufacturer and component manuals, watch some YouTube videos, and read some blogs. Have an understanding of how you're going to deal with the issues before they arise. Building your skillset will pay dividends under stress.
Travel safe, minimize the breakdowns, and may your next “uh-oh” moment turn into a minor inconvenience rather than a trip ender. The freedom and independence of the open road comes with the responsibility to be prepared.
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Disclaimer: The information in this article is based on personal experience and is for general educational purposes only. RV repairs can involve safety risks, especially when working with electrical systems, propane, or lifting a vehicle. Always follow your RV manufacturer’s instructions, use proper safety equipment, and consult a qualified RV technician if you’re unsure about any repair.
Click the in-text links to see the products on Amazon
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