Solved: 2023 F350 Super Duty Steering Wheel Clunk & Popping

As the winter months creep in, it’s the perfect time to tackle the maintenance I’ve been putting off. Today, I’m diving headfirst into a puzzling issue that’s been bugging me for months: a mysterious popping and clunking sensation in the steering wheel of my 2023 F350 Super Duty.

If you are feeling a "pop" or "clunk" in your Super Duty steering wheel, you aren't alone. I've read numerous social media and forum posts that share this issue. Here is how I diagnosed the issue and the process I used to swap out the faulty lower steering shaft.

⚠️ Disclaimer & Safety Warning

Read Before Proceeding: This post documents my personal experience repairing my own vehicle. This is not an official instruction manual. Steering components are critical safety features; improper installation can result in loss of control, accident, or injury. If you do not have the requisite knowledge, tools, or ability to safely perform this repair, consult a certified technician. Perform this repair at your own risk.

The Symptoms: The "Ghost" Clunk

The issue began in early summer while traveling North through Michigan with my fifth wheel in tow. Occasionally, when hitting bumps in the road, I'd feel a distinct pop or clunk resonate through the steering wheel.

Initially, I assumed it was suspension under compression caused by the heavy trailer. However, the symptoms persisted even after I unhooked the trailer.

The Diagnosis: Ruling Out the Usual Suspects

Before throwing parts at the truck, I did a "nut and bolt" check of the usual suspects:

1. Suspension Components: I checked the track bar, tie rods, and ball joints. Everything was tight.

2. The Clock Spring: I briefly considered the clock spring inside the column. However, a bad clock spring usually makes a consistent scraping noise or triggers an airbag light. My issue was intermittent and mechanical.

3. Upper Shaft: The upper shaft inside the cab operates in a straight line and is protected from the elements. It was unlikely to be the failure point.

The Verdict

That left the Lower Steering Shaft. This component lives in the engine bay, exposed to heat, moisture, and road grime. It has two U-joints that allow the steering angle to change. If those joints bind, they snap free under pressure, creating that "pop" or "clunk" sensation.

Parts and Tools Required

I purchased my replacement shaft directly from Ford to ensure I had the latest revision of the OEM part. I also ordered new bolts, as the Ford Service Manual designates these as one-time-use fasteners. Ensure you use your VIN when searching for the correct parts. It appears that there are at least two different lower steering shafts used in late model Super Duties with one being closer to $200.

While I bought the parts from the dealer, you will need specific tools to get this done.

• Metric 3/8 Drive Ratchet Set (You specifically need 10mm and 13mm sockets)

• 3/8 Drive Torque Wrench (Crucial for safety specs)

• Mechanic’s Work Light (It gets dark down by the steering box)

• Blue Loctite (Optional, but often recommended by DIYers for peace of mind)

The Repair: Step-by-Step

1. Secure the Steering Wheel (CRITICAL STEP)

Before loosening a single bolt, I had to lock the steering wheel in place. If the wheel spins freely while the shaft is disconnected, you will snap the internal clock spring (a very expensive mistake) and potentially ruin the steering angle sensor calibration.

I didn't have a specialized wheel holder, so I used firm cardboard boxes wedged between the steering wheel and the driver's seat to apply constant pressure and prevent rotation.

2. Remove the Upper Bolt

Using a 13mm socket, I removed the bolt connecting the lower shaft to the intermediate shaft (near the firewall).

Note: The bolt must be fully removed, not just loosened. It passes through a groove in the shaft, locking it in place.

3. Remove the Lower Bolt

Down by the steering gear (steering box), there is a second bolt. This required a 10mm socket. Like the top, I removed this bolt entirely.

4. Remove the Old Shaft

With the bolts out, the shaft collapses slightly. I slid it off the steering gear splines first, then pulled it off the upper shaft.

5. Install the New Shaft

I compared the new shaft to the old one to confirm the length and U-joint orientation matched.

1. Slide the bottom of the new shaft onto the steering gear splines.

2. Install the new lower bolt hand tight only.

3. Extend the shaft to mate with the upper intermediate shaft.

4. Install the new upper bolt hand tight only.

6. Torque to Spec

Once everything was aligned and seated, I used my torque wrench to tighten the fasteners.

• Bottom Bolt: I torqued this to 22 lb-ft.

• Top Bolt: I torqued this to 41 lb-ft.

Note on Lane Assist: My truck does not have the electronic steering actuator (Lane Assist). If your truck has that module on the steering column, the torque spec I found in my research was 26 lb-ft. Always verify your specific vehicle's specs.

The Results: What Was Wrong?

A test drive confirmed the fix: No more popping and clunking in the steering wheel.

I inspected the old shaft on my workbench. Sure enough, both U-joints were shot. When I rotated them by hand, I could feel a "gritty," notchy sensation. That resistance was the needle bearings binding up, and the "clunk" I felt while driving was the force required to snap those bearings past the sticky spots.

The cause of failure was likely a combination of environmental exposure (heat from the header + road spray) and potentially a metallurgical issue with the u-joint supplier's alloy. Given how common this complaint is on the forums, I wouldn't be surprised if I have to do this again in 50,000 miles unless Ford updates the part design.